by Moutushi Ghoshdeysarkar
December is pleasant everywhere
in India, well almost. Except for the extreme north where temperatures dip to
sub zero, it is the time of the year to definitely book a trip.
I wanted to revisit Golconda Fort
and my hubby acquiesced. After having travelled for so many years and living in
one or the other city in India since birth now he feels that yet another Indian
city is not worth visiting, and second time is out of question. Yet he agreed,
was it something to blush blush!! Or some architecture which he found was not
covered last time, I wonder now??
A three day trip was planned. If
possible we prefer trains as our son has flight allergy. It is not just the
load of sickness bags that we would like to avoid it is also the inconvenience
caused to the other passengers owning to the horrendous sound accompanied with the
spew.
We de-boarded the express at Kachiguda
station. It was early morning and the breeze had a slight chill. Our
destination was 16 kms away on the outskirts of the city near the Golconda
Fort. It is called Taramati Baradari. All through the city traffic was thin,
owning to the hour of the day. The neatly done flyovers and pedestrian bridges
were impressive enough and then we left the city behind to enter the military
area. The greens, wide roads with divider and the highway experience, were all
whispering a good start.
The signage indicated Golconda
Fort to the left and Taramati straight ahead, 2 more kms. Confused? Why we are
heading towards a tourist attraction without checking in somewhere? That’s what
this write up is all about. I chose Haritha Hotel by Telangana Tourism which is
housed in the same complex as that of Taramati Baradari to be far from the city
limits and yet be near our major attraction – The Fort!
The Taramati complex is a treat
to nature lovers, trees lined up in harmony with the well maintained lawns,
clean path ways and ample opportunity to create frames.
Photography is allowed anytime
and is free for residents of the monument complex and has a monumental fee of
3000INR for visitors within restricted hours. The double storied livings
quarters are lined up in a semicircle, with all rooms facing the manicured
lawns. The rooms are basic with a geyser, TV and AC. All are double bedded with
a provision of an extra bedding if need be.
The pleasant weather, chirping
birds, smell of wild flowers and a hungry belly! We freshened up and rushed to
the restaurant which was to the right of the entry gate and gobbled up some
idli and puri that was on offer. The food I must caution all and one is a
dampener. To begin with, the menu is very restricted. The taste is average and
the staff is reluctant to serve.
After a not so happening
breakfast but a filled stomach we went on to explore the Baradari. A little
short of 200 stone steps up, up and way above the ground is a big hall with
pillars. Apparently it was a Serai (caravan station) on the banks of Musi
River. The second sultan of Golconda, Ibrahim Quli Qutub Shah built a beautiful
Persian garden called Ibrahim Bagh. This Serai was part of it. A Serai
typically provides the much needed refreshment and entertainment for the wary
traders after a long and tedious journey. The ancient structure more than 500
yrs old is naturally ventilated with 12 arched doorways which must have been
beautifully painted to the delight of the temporary boarders.
This Serai gets its special name
and is romanticised by popularising the stories of romance between Abdullah
Qutub Shah, the seventh sultan and his favourite courtesan Taramati. An
unbelievable but fantastic fable is that Taramati used to sing at the Baradari
and the gentle breeze used to carry it to the fort 2kms away reaching the
Prince’s ears. Some say Taramati and Premamati were two beautiful dancing girls
who would tie a rope to their waist and dance between their pavilion and the
king’s balcony. Nothing comes from nothing, nothing ever could and thence there
must be some truth in the fables whatsoever. As a token of love and tribute
Taramati and Premamati were buried in the royal cemetery.
One of the domes of the royal
cemetery more popularly known as the Qutub Shahi Tombs can be seen from the
Baradari and whether or not the breeze could carry the melody so far, the eyes
can reach the top quarters of the Fort and vice versa.
The journey from the light and
sound show at the fort was quick, easy and breezy as we carried the melodies
back to the hotel. The lack of gourmet gratification was compensated by the
ambiance. The silent night, magical light, historical site all combined into a
concoction of pure delight.
Over the next two days we hogged
on authentic Hyderabadi Biriyani from the original “Paradise” at Secunderabad, visited
Charminar and the ornate palaces half circling the Hussain Sagar at least 4 times,
and finally having a gala lunch at the Tansen beside it, each time coming back to
our sanctum, the Serai.
Apart from the hotel, keeping in
tradition of the Serai, Taramati Baradari today caters to a wide array of
entertainment and literary programs, for which its open air auditorium and AC
theatre can be hired. It is assuredly a lair, far from the madding crowd and
pollution of a city. Please feel free to get in touch for more details – moutushig@gmail.com
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